I have a 1970 CT1, and I just recently got it all assembled. I am not sure which brown cable should be plugged into the horn. There are two brown cables there that have two put into one connector. Does anybody know how to tell which one it should go to? I think it comes from the rear or front brake switch. There is also a brown with white stripe cable that has a scale it connects to but doesn't reach. What does this go to?
Just thought I would share the Kawasaki part number for the same switch used by Yamaha. They are the same switch. I have not looked at the wiring diagram, you might have to change wire colors to match the Yamaha wiring.
Kawasaki part # 46027-006
Yamaha part # 261-83976-00-00
Number 25 shown below.
So ,this afternoon I got around to looking at the stator from my DT1B.
As you can see there's damage to it. The bike ran and I rode it. However, I wouldn't trust it after encountering wet roads or a bucket of water.
So I tested two source coils from some RT1B spares. They give out 2 ohms. Nothing over the windings. Thats telling me that nothing is open circuit and the windings are still insulated.
Now then, I put the probe on the wire going to the capacitor from the DT1B s source coil and into the gouge tha goes a winding deep or more. I got a reading of 1 to 0 ohms.
By Capacitor, I think you were trying to say the condenser? Yes, I agree. You can see some visual damage and you are not getting consistent readings when compared to your known good coils. Rex Speed Shop or DEET could rewind them and add a protective epoxy coating to the copper windings.
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Enduro Fanatic
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Thanks for posting pictures! I noticed that you have shocks from a later model, (they are thermal flow).
Just to echo what Enduronut said, you will have to pay money to fix the front wheel. 70% of the motorcycles stopping power is from the front wheel, so it is good to spend the money to make it right. Another Yamaha Enduro Fan, went over the handle bars, when his front end locked up, and he suffered brain damage.
To answer this question: "I may be able to cut the bad threads off, rethread it, and buy a new bolt. If that does not work what would you recommend?"
Below is just my opinion...
If you cut the bad threads off you are losing some of the adjustment length. Also, the metal has been worn down, re-threading it wouldn't really fix it. To have it fixed, you would need to build up the metal, by welding, then you would need to put it in a lathe, and lastly re-thread it.
The cost to have this fixed would likely cost more then buying one from Ebay.