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Newly Acquired Yamaha 125's
Richard
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Done with my rebuild
Hey guys and gals I’ve just finished refurbishing of my 1970 AT1 125. It took me a year and and a half but it turned out amazing. Thanks to Dave for the new piston and rings I had it bored and she runs great. Everything works including the electric start. Tank paint, seat and cover are o original. Took it down to the frame. If I could figure out how to post pictures here I would. Tires , chain, sprockets are new as are most of the cables. I’m looking to see what a fare selling price would be and where to advertise. Thanks very much. Lew also painted the frame , fenders , headlight and headlight holders. Every nut and bold was polished and or replaced.
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Devin
10 may
•
To upload pictures you click on the picture/camera icon and select the pictures you wish to add.
Editado
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1970 Yamaha CT1B Front Fender
I have a 1970 Yamaha CT1B and was working on the fenders to get ready to paint them. The front fender is from a 1970-1972 175. I'm not sure what year. Does anyone know the material this is made from? I would assume it is made from aluminum, zinc, or magnesium, because it is not rusted, unlike the rear fender. I ask this because I was using a propane torch to get a few dents out, and it melted a hole right through it. Would I be able to do some sort of welding, such as TIG? Or would my better option be to use fiberglass or Bondo over it?
The rear of the front fender
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Enduronut
09 may
•
Most Yamaha Enduro front fenders were made of aluminum until the 1971 models came out. You can tell if it's made of aluminum or steel, by using a magnet.
Also, the earlier aluminum fenders had their mounting brackets riveted on, and the later steel fenders had spot welded mounting brackets.
As for repairs, there's a product (aluminum brazing rods) that I've used before, that might work well for you. Follow the manufactures instructions, and I suggest some practice brazing on a similar thin piece of aluminum first . . . metal must be very clean, and scratched up with some fine sand paper (400 ~ 600 grit), or use a "clean" stainless steel wire brush. . . . even your fingerprints from handling the fender can effect the outcome of your repair job.
Ohhh .... and use a temp gun to make sure you don't overheat the fender...
In other words, no higher then what the recommended melting point is of whichever brand of rod you choose to used. (roughly 750 degrees)
Watch this U-TUBE video . . . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKIKsDfRAcs
Good luck
Dave/Enduronut
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Rear sprocket “wiggle”/play
It just doesn’t seem right that this rear sprocket on my 1973 CT3 has some play or “wiggle” to it. Before I start getting into the damper and the bearings, I figured I would ask you guys what you thought?
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A Barrett
08 may
?There are rubber bushes behind the sprocket - remove and inspect - replace the perished ones. they are intended to cushion your power delivery. Try YAMBITS for new ones - evil bay sellers have them too - have Fun!
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Engine rebuild?
I’ve been thinking about rebuilding the engine on my 1973 CT3 175. I feel I can do it myself, but if there anyone (affiliated with this sight) that would be able/willing to do it I would be happy to pay for all parts, labor & shipping, etc..
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Carden
09 may
•
Hey thanks for that video, I have the exact same problem, maybe worse, and I just sent my cylinder off to get bored and honed to the 0.25 mm o/s.
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High compression
I never thought I’d have to worry about a vintage 2 stroke having too much compression but is 190 without exhausts on too high. If so what would be the cause and solution?
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Rare NOS Genuine Yamaha Fuel Line for all AT1/2/3 ... CT1/2/3 ... DT1/2/3 ... RT1/2/3 Enduro Models . . . also many others
FITS: 35 models . . . including all 125, 175, 250, and 360 Yamaha Enduro models between 1968 and 1973, as well as the AT1/2/3 MX, DT1 & RT1 MX models, ... also some 74/75 models
OEM part number is 214-24311-00
These are still nice, soft rubber . . . Satisfaction Guaranteed, or return for a full refund.
These original Yamaha gas lines have been unavailable for many decades, and are nearly impossible to find today !
If originality is important to you, then consider this a rare opportunity .... Get one while you can.
If function, (or price) are your only concerns, then there's plenty of cheap hose available at your local hardware store.
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How much play should the piston head have on a 1973 Yamaha rt3 360?
So it has almost no up and down play or side to side from the rod itself but the
piston head slides
side to side about a quarter of an inch which seems like a look of play.
112 Views
Enduronut
22 abr
•
Thanks for recognizing that we are strictly a vintage Yamaha 2 stroke site.
However, I'll go ahead and comment
That is a highly collectable 1971 Kawasaki street bike you found, and was the absolute fastest production motorcycle down the quarter mile strip, back when they came out !
Although it needs a lot of work, . . . especially if someone plans to restore it correctly, it's certainly worth a $1000 in parts alone. A fully restored one recently sold for $26,000.
Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to buy that, and get it cleaned up, put back together and perhaps running.
You need to find a vintage Kawasaki web site that specializes in the "H1 Mach III" models. One of those guys would probably give you several thousand for it ... just the way it sits.
If you do purchase it, we won't be helping you get it running here . . . You will have to find the appropriate Kawasaki web site.
Good Luck, Dave
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Turn signal lights
This is concerning my 1973 CT3175. I just replaced all four bulbs on my turn signals both front and rear with OEM Yamaha bulbs I bought from Partzilla. When I turn the turn signal right or left they flash a few times and then they stop? Is this a bad relay, wire. Etc.? This just started happening. They worked fine until this past week.
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Brent Dreier Sr
28 abr
•
Wow, was that so helpful! Thank you so much. Thanks to you guys, I have really been enjoying keeping up on this bike! I’ll let you know how it goes when I get the new flasher…
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I just sold an AT2 after a mystery issue. It barely ran but the issue was
It kept leaking fuel over the bowl. I did everything to prevent this but after
4 rebuilt carbs they all did the same thing. I had a expert rebuild one of the original carbs the he mounted and ran another AT2. Then put it on my bike and it leaked fuel over the bowl and wouldn’t start. Remember, I put four rebuilt carbs on it and they all did the same thing leaked over the bowl. I dumped baby powder on it one time and let it sit for two days and the leak with splattering as you can see in the picture from the bowl to the intake it was ghostly
Please don’t say oh it’s your float adjustment, needle jet all that crap was replaced with the Mikuni parts on four carburetors!
I finally just got fed up and sold it