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Shyted

Founding Member

Enduro Fanatic

Sticking carb on my RT1B .

I couldn't get it to run right.

I bought it from a dealer.

The tank was full of dirt, fuel tap leaking ,yadder yadder.

The fuel pipe was disintegrating.

Sorted all that out.

It would run but you know when that confidence isn't there?

New points, remove the head, check the barrel and ring clearance. All within tollerance.

Set the timing with the dial gauge.

Much better, but not right and suffering pre ignition and running hotter than it should and temperamental to start.

It would idle for 5 minutes then die.

Then about a year into trying things something happened.

I removed the carb and raised the needle by one notch.

I replaced the carb .

Opened the throttle and I didn't hear it snap back. Tried it again and same again.

Thought I hadn't assembled it right. I had though. Tried again and same result.

As I slackened one of the nuts off, I heard " Chink" as the slide dropped down.

" Ehh ? " Tightend the nut Opened the throttle, let it go and , nowt !!!

Slackened the nut" Chink" down the slide dropped.

If you encounter this on your bike, more than likely, if the carb is assembled correctly, the cable is good , not damaged and the twist grip is freely operating, then check the carb mounting face, as mine was warped and deforming the slide tube when tightening it the flange mount up, thus stopping the slide returning all the way home.

Now, all the problems have vanished. Bikes good for 70 MPH and starts a treat although I don't trust it enough to ware slippers when I kick it up.

65 Views
Enduronut
Enduronut
28. Apr.

Great post Shyted . . .

You aren't the first guy that's had to scratch his head over this issue .... Ha ha

I'm glad you posted this problem that the early flange mounted carbs sometimes suffered from.

I hope to write some more on this topic in the future .... including how to repair it, and how to avoid future reoccurrence.


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