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Hello everyone, I’m a new member.
I bought a very nice 72 Yamaha CT2
about four years ago from an estate sale. The bike is in great condition including the original paint. The previous owner had inside of tank lined. Does anyone know a business that can remove and replace liner without damaging the paint?
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I need some info on the lower throttle cable. I had 1 made and it's to short. If anyone has on I would love to have the dimensions thanks
Oil pump outer casing measurement, is with adjuster screwed all the way in (shortest adjustment)
The inner wire measurements, are from tip to tip (including the little lead bead stop, located on both ends)
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Richard
I just sold an AT2 after a mystery issue. It barely ran but the issue was
It kept leaking fuel over the bowl. I did everything to prevent this but after
4 rebuilt carbs they all did the same thing. I had a expert rebuild one of the original carbs the he mounted and ran another AT2. Then put it on my bike and it leaked fuel over the bowl and wouldn’t start. Remember, I put four rebuilt carbs on it and they all did the same thing leaked over the bowl. I dumped baby powder on it one time and let it sit for two days and the leak with splattering as you can see in the picture from the bowl to the intake it was ghostly
Please don’t say oh it’s your float adjustment, needle jet all that crap was replaced with the Mikuni parts on four carburetors!
I finally just got fed up and sold it
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Hey guys and gals I’ve just finished refurbishing of my 1970 AT1 125. It took me a year and and a half but it turned out amazing. Thanks to Dave for the new piston and rings I had it bored and she runs great. Everything works including the electric start. Tank paint, seat and cover are o original. Took it down to the frame. If I could figure out how to post pictures here I would. Tires , chain, sprockets are new as are most of the cables. I’m looking to see what a fare selling price would be and where to advertise. Thanks very much. Lew also painted the frame , fenders , headlight and headlight holders. Every nut and bold was polished and or replaced.
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I have a 1970 Yamaha CT1B and was working on the fenders to get ready to paint them. The front fender is from a 1970-1972 175. I'm not sure what year. Does anyone know the material this is made from? I would assume it is made from aluminum, zinc, or magnesium, because it is not rusted, unlike the rear fender. I ask this because I was using a propane torch to get a few dents out, and it melted a hole right through it. Would I be able to do some sort of welding, such as TIG? Or would my better option be to use fiberglass or Bondo over it?
The rear of the front fender
Most Yamaha Enduro front fenders were made of aluminum until the 1971 models came out. You can tell if it's made of aluminum or steel, by using a magnet.
Also, the earlier aluminum fenders had their mounting brackets riveted on, and the later steel fenders had spot welded mounting brackets.
As for repairs, there's a product (aluminum brazing rods) that I've used before, that might work well for you. Follow the manufactures instructions, and I suggest some practice brazing on a similar thin piece of aluminum first . . . metal must be very clean, and scratched up with some fine sand paper (400 ~ 600 grit), or use a "clean" stainless steel wire brush. . . . even your fingerprints from handling the fender can effect the outcome of your repair job.
Ohhh .... and use a temp gun to make sure you don't overheat the fender...
In other words, no higher then what the recommended melting point is of whichever brand of rod you choose to used. (roughly 750 degrees)
Watch this U-TUBE video . . . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKIKsDfRAcs
Good luck
Dave/Enduronut
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It just doesn’t seem right that this rear sprocket on my 1973 CT3 has some play or “wiggle” to it. Before I start getting into the damper and the bearings, I figured I would ask you guys what you thought?
?There are rubber bushes behind the sprocket - remove and inspect - replace the perished ones. they are intended to cushion your power delivery. Try YAMBITS for new ones - evil bay sellers have them too - have Fun!
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I’ve been thinking about rebuilding the engine on my 1973 CT3 175. I feel I can do it myself, but if there anyone (affiliated with this sight) that would be able/willing to do it I would be happy to pay for all parts, labor & shipping, etc..
Hey thanks for that video, I have the exact same problem, maybe worse, and I just sent my cylinder off to get bored and honed to the 0.25 mm o/s.
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Hi there!
The rims on my 74 DT360A unfortunately have quite some lateral and vertical runout. I wasn’t able to measure it yet, but at least at the front it‘s easily visible, that it exceeds the 2mm limit. While driving on a smooth road at around 40mph, the vibrations get pretty intense. I‘m not sure if it‘s the spokes or the rim itself.
I don’t have much experience with spoke rims, I remember to have read somewhere that you should avoid adjusting/retightening spokes that old. What’s your opinion on that? Does someone know the exact length of the rear (18“) and front (21“) spokes or where to get them? Maybe some newer models used the same length.
Hello Leon
I think it's ok to adjust and true the original wheel spokes, but knowing that if you fail to improve the runout, then you may have to go shopping for a new set. Afterall, why not try if it's already bad?
If you need help, there are "How To" video's on the internet
The FRONT WHEEL has two different spoke "head angles" ... (18 Inner & 18 Outer) ... but they are all the same length . . . 229mm.
I have the front spoke set for $120. + shipping . . . See picture below:
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The BACK WHEEL has two different length spokes (18 Inner & 18 Outer), and it also has two different "head angles". This means that there are four different spokes used on the back wheel.
9 short Inner spokes, & 9 short outer spokes = for right / brake side
9 long inner spokes, & 9 long outer spokes = for left / sprocket side
Unfortunately, I don't have this rear set . . . and I don't have the measurements either
NOTE: There's one rear set currently on eBay USA, but very expensive . . . eBay item number: 156337303624
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I never thought I’d have to worry about a vintage 2 stroke having too much compression but is 190 without exhausts on too high. If so what would be the cause and solution?
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